The memory of a traveler, part 7
Esfahan
Esfahan is Iran’s masterpiece and the jewel of ancient Persia. In the 16th century Persians proudly said that Esfahan is “half of the world”. Today Esfahan has 4 million inhabitants, but no city of this size has more parks and tree-lined alleys. Several sights are “world class” and one can safely say that Esfahan is the most beautiful city of the Islamic world.
The first sight is the Palace of 40 Columns. Well, there are only 20, but Persians count also the ones mirrored in the water of the pond. The inside of the palace is marvelous. A typical painting shows the sultan and his court at a meal, while young ladies are dancing. Our guide keeps explaining that the young ladies are Armenian Christians. Muslim women would not engage in such activity.
Same picture everywhere: Hertha is the center of attention
The heart of the city is the Imam Square. With a length of 1500 ft and a width of 500 ft, it is the second largest square of the world. The Tian-An-Men Square in Beijing ranks at number one. The square is home to three fantastic sights: the Imam Mosque is probably the most beautiful mosque in the world. The dome has a height of 150 ft and the entire complex is a dreamlike symphony in blue. When we stopped exactly in the middle of the room and looked up to the top of the dome I noticed tears in Hertha’s eyes. She was so overwhelmed. A popular tourist activity is testing the echo. Provided that there is no other activity in the room, one can hear even the echo of crinkling a banknote. One can hear up to 12 echos, and one can measure 49 of them.
It is impossible to catch the grandeur of this building
Hair and naked feet!
Totally different is the Lotfollah Mosque. The dome’s color is creamy, and there are no minarets. Most likely it was the mosque for the harem.
The 6-story-high Ali Qapu Palace is a wonderful addition to an otherwise already spectacular square.
Another example of pastime religious tolerance is the quarter of the Armenian Christians. When in 1600 the sultan called for skilled workers from abroad, he wanted to make sure that they feel like at home and he had several churches erected. Even today Isfahan is home to 13 churches, and Vank Cathedral is probably the best of them. From the outside the churches look like mosques, except that there are crosses on the top of the domes. The inside overwhelms. It is full of Christian paintings and contrary to Islam, shows human beings.
Left: the outside, right: the inside of the cathedral
The best place to stay in Esfahan is the Abbasi Hotel, formerly a caravanserai:
What a cute little baby!
At night one last glimpse at the Imam Mosque before we fly next morning back to Tehran, flying over the desert
